NEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES In “Istanbul,” Mr. Pamuk captured the melancholy, or huzun, that infused the metropolis during his boyhood, …
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES Tucked off one steep avenue is an alley of government-sanctioned brothels guarded by the police. The Karakoy…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES A few steps away we ducked into Vefa Bozacisi, another of his favorite places. Founded in 1876, the shop, a…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES We entered the grounds of the Fatih Mosque, built on the orders of Fatih Sultan Mehmed, the conqueror of Con…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES On a windswept afternoon in mid-December, the writer Orhan Pamuk stood in a leafy square around the corner f…
Read moreA STRANGENESS IN MY MIND With thanks to Orhan Pamuk for borrowing the title of his fine book, I had quite the strangeness in my mind last month will …
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES Not far away was another symbol of Ottoman hubris: the monumental central post office, opened in 1909, short…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGE A century ago, “all the boats that came from the Sea of Marmara, from the Mediterranean, ended up here,” Mr. …
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES In the early 1970s, Mr. Pamuk, then an architecture student and aspiring painter with a love for Western lit…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES He seemed to tense up slightly as we left the mosque and wandered into one of Istanbul’s hard-core Sunni nei…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES “I did my first foreign travel in 1959, when I went to Geneva for the summer with my father, and I didn’t le…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES In the early 1970s, Mr. Pamuk, then an architecture student and aspiring painter with a love for Western lit…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES In 2005, Mr. Pamuk responded to an interviewer’s question about a crackdown on freedom of expression in Turk…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES We continued across the Galata Bridge, the historic epicenter of Istanbul, stopping midway to admire the sce…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES We entered the grounds of the Fatih Mosque, built on the orders of Fatih Sultan Mehmed, the conqueror of Con…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES The tale was a historical romance set in 15th-century Anatolia, the vast hinterland east of Istanbul. His f…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES Within these few square blocks, the Ottoman rulers commissioned grandiose palaces and other buildings that p…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES Not far away was another symbol of Ottoman hubris: the monumental central post office, opened in 1909, short…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES On this cloudy afternoon we followed a zigzag route that roughly paralleled the Bosporus and took us through…
Read moreNEW YORK TIMES WORDS/STEVE WRIGHT IMAGES On the south side of the Golden Horn, we pushed past crowds in the Baharat spice bazaar, and emerged on a bu…
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